BACKGROUND When two clones of Auxerrois (ohk-sair-wah) arrived in Oregon from Alsace in 1977, we had barely heard of the variety. Still, after tasting some experimental wines made at Oregon State University, our interest was piqued. It turns out that Auxerrois, like Chardonnay, Aligoté, Gamay, and 10 other varieties, is a medieval cross between the noble Pinot noir grape of Burgundy and an ignoble variety, Gouais blanc. Auxerrois is the name of the duchy around the town of Auxerre, near Chablis, but the variety is not grown there now. In fact, there are probably only 500 acres of the variety worldwide. It is only a major variety in Luxembourg, where its early ripening is a real plus. It is considered a second-class citizen in Alsace,used somewhat interchangeably with Pinot blanc, but the occasional bottlings of this variety alone have remarkable purity.
VINEYARDS Starting in the mid-1980’s, we planted the variety sequentially at three different vineyard sites. Wines made from the first two plantings never gave us reason to bottle them on their own. However, our third planting, at our Ribbon Springs Vineyard, coincided with our increased understanding of how to grow and produce white wines in our region (specifically
by avoiding drought stress in the vineyard and bitterness in our winemaking regime.) The Ribbon Springs block, just 1.65 acres, was planted in 1990. The 2003 vintage was the first significant crop.
WINEMAKING In our cool climate, production of white wines requires not only optimum grape ripeness, but also gentle handling of the fruit during the winemaking process. Following a light, whole-cluster pressing, the juice was settled for 24 hours to separate the clear juice from the gross lees. Fermentation took place at cool temperatures in stainless steel tanks, and malolactic fermentation of the wine was prevented in order to retain all the gorgeous fresh fruit aromas possible. The wine was lightly filtered prior to bottling in April 2007.
THE WINE When Auxerrois grapes become fully ripe, the resulting wine takes on aromas of quince, Asian pear and honey, and acquires body and length. Fennel and tarragon notes may also be found, but all flavors present are delicately balanced. Wonderful on its own as an apéritif, it would also pair beautifully with shellfish, tarragon salmon, and many courses at the beginning of a meal.
PRODUCTION There were 499 cases of the 2006 Willamette Valley Auxerrois produced.
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