BACKGROUND We fell in love with the Tocai grape in 1996 when we were looking at winemaking facilities in Friuli. It is the most pervasive variety in all of Friuli. Though the name implies it might have a commonality with the dessert wine of Hungary or a range of things called “Tokay”, it is actually a member of the Sauvignon family. It’s vigorous, with huge canes and huge clusters and, with a climate cooler than Friuli, we have it planted on one of our warmest sites to ensure that ripening is not a problem. The only problem is that the name “Tocai Friulano” has been prohibited in Italy (due to Hungary’s entry into the EU) and that it also violates Oregon’s labeling regulations that prohibit the use of European place names in grape variety names. Finding no viable alternative, we went the abbreviation route, and call this wine “TF”.
VINEYARDS All our Tocai Friulano is planted in Ellis Vineyard, a site that is owned by our friends, Del and Jessie Ellis, but is leased to us. We do all the vineyard management and decision-making. It is at the eastern end of the Chehalem Mountains, around 550 feet above sea level on reddish, volcanic-origin Saum soils. These soils provide adequate drainage in winter and spring, but still retain enough moisture into the late summer to keep the vines from shutting down due to drought-stress. The Tocai buds were grafted onto 3¼ acres of Chardonnay plants, originally planted in 1988.
WINEMAKING The incredible fruitiness and spice of Tocai grapes are carried in a layer attached under the skin. Much of that flavor is lost if we follow our normal regime of simply pressing the grapes as whole clusters and sending the resulting juice immediately to tank. The critical winemaking step comes after the initial pressing, when winemaker Dave Paige pumps the juice back over the lightly pressed grapes. The natural enzymes in the juice help break down that flavor layer still in the skins. After about half an hour, the juice has enough flavor and goes to tank. In those stainless steel tanks, the juice is inoculated with a commercial yeast to insure a slow, cool fermentation. This year, malolactic fermentation was totally blocked to preserve all the fresh fruitiness of the wine. The final blend is 80% from Ribbon Springs Vineyard and 20% from Ellis Vineyard. The 2006 “TF” was bottled on May 1, 2007.
THE WINE It is great fun to compare our “TF” with its Old World counterparts. The aromas of the two are similar, but ours is somewhat more in the direction of lime, kiwi, and guava, and a little less about new-mown hay. In the mouth, ours seems richer, rounder and fruitier without being sweet; Friulian bottlings are usually more earthy and tannic. As for pairings, shellfish of any sort would be the traditional partner, but our “TF” also seems to be wonderful with full-flavored, semi-hard cheeses, real Italian Fontina, for example .
PRODUCTION We produced 342 cases of our 2006 Willamette Valley “TF.”
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